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Perfect Pie
Here is our list of places in Naples and in the U.S. that serve
memorable Neapolitan-style pies worth tracking down. Don't see your
favorite? Post a comment to tell us about it.
In Naples
While Naples is home to an overwhelming number of pizzerie, these
local favorites are pictured in “In Pizza Veritas,” from La Cucina
Italiana’s March/April 2009 issue.
L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3, Naples
Tel. 0815.539204
damichele.net
Margherita and Marinara are the only two pizzas served at this popular
joint that’s been around since 1870. Located at the threshold of the
Forcella neighborhood, Michele Condurro, son of Salvatore and grandson
of Michele, the founder of the pizzeria, are faithful to the area’s
long pizza-making tradition.
Pizzeria Port’Alba
18 Via Port’Alba, Naples
Tel. 0814.59713
Possibly the oldest pizzeria in Naples, Port’Alba has been open since
1738, serving pizza in a neighborhood dominated by booksellers. At 8
o’clock in the morning, the Luciano brothers set up shop with their
pizzas to go, which make a filling breakfast. When lunch hour rolls
around, they make larger pizzas with more toppings for the customers
who fill the pizzeria’s tables.
Pizzeria Bellini
Via Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 79/80, Naples
Tel. 8145.9774
Pizzeria Bellini was started after World War II by Mr. and Mrs.
Tommasino, who operated their shop on the wreckage the war left
behind, serving pizze a otto, or “pizzas in eight,” which the poor
could buy and pay for up to eight days later. Today, their pizzas are
served on iron plates.
Pizzeria Lombardi
Via Benedetto Croce, 59, Naples
Tel. 8155.20780
Referred to as a Neapolitan monument, this pizzeria was opened by
Enrico Lombardi in the late 1800s. Originally located next to the bell
tower of Santa Chiara to feed churchgoers, it’s now on the Via
Benedetto Croce, where visitors enjoy pizza “alla Lombardi,” prepared
with fresh tomatoes and flavorful provola cheese from Vico Equense.
Pizzeria Brandi
Salita S. Anna di Palazzo 1-2, Naples
Tel. 0814.16928
Brandi.it
Raffaele Esposito, the founder of this pizzeria, created the famous
pizza for Queen Margherita, and the Esposito family proudly maintains
their pizza heritage in this spot near the Via Chiaja, in between the
Spanish Quarter’s dichotomous high-end stores and poverty.
Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente
Via Tribunali, 120 – 121, Naples
Tel. 0812.10903
ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it
This pizzeria stretches beyond traditional pies to offer several
variations, which include toppings such as a margherita topped with
prosciutto or an egg, or a marinara topped with tuna.
Pizzeria Starita a Materdei
Via Materdei 27, 28, Naples
Tel. 0815.573682
pizzeriastarita.it
Open since 1901, this trattoria and pizzeria gained fame when it was
featured in Sofia Loren’s 1954 film, L’Oro di Napoli. Locals love it
both for its pizza and for other treasures, including its Corna di
Maradona, dough stuffed with ricotta and pork fat.
Pizzeria Trianon
Via Pietro Colletta, 42/46, Naples
Tel. 8155.39426
Near the Piazza Garibaldi, the pizza here is known for its abundance
of oil and fresh ingredients.
In the United States
If you’re searching stateside for perfect Neapolitan-style pizza,
here’s our working list of pizzerie that create pizza in the tradition
of the Neapolitan pizzaiolo, though often with a modern twist. We
didn’t limit our selections to restaurants certified by the US branch
of Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN), but, while there are countless
pizzerie worth mentioning, we have restricted our list to those that
use a traditional wood-fired oven.
Arizona
Pizzeria Bianco
623 E. Adams St.
Phoenix, 85004
Tel. 602.258.8300
pizzeriabianco.com
Our friend Chris Bianco’s eponymous pizzeria has garnered a national
following. It’s not hard to see why when you step into the historic
brick building and get hit by the savory smell of wood smoke and hot
Neapolitan pizza.
California
A16
2355 Chestnut St.
San Francisco, 94123
Tel. 415.771.2216
a16sf.com
With cuisine focused on Campania and true Neapolitan pizza, plus a
stellar wine list heavy in southern Italian labels, A16 quickly has
become a neighborhood favorite.
Antica Pizzeria
13455 Maxella Ave (2nd floor)
Marina del Rey, CA 90292
Tel. 310.577.8182
anticapizzeria.net
Opened by Peppe Miele, the founding
president of VPN in the U.S., its no surprise that his pizza is
unwaveringly authentic. And this has been a favorite spot for L.A.
pizza cognoscenti since it opened in 1997.
The Prospector
23092 Fuller Rd.
Twain Harte, CA 92383
Tel. 209.586.1313
prospectorwines.com
In a small town high in the California Sierra Mountains, this is an
unlikely locale to find VPN-certified pizza. During the Gold Rush, the
oven used at this establishment was shipped from Naples around Cape
Horn and lugged into gold country by a prospecting Italian.
Illinois
Spacca Napoli
1769 W. Sunnyside Ave.
Chicago, 60640
Tel. 771.878.2420
spaccanapolipizzeria.com
Pies here are created from a traditional Neapolitan oven adorned with
a Bisazza tile mosaic, and the chef experiments with combinations of
Italian cheese from a local importer.
Minnesota
Punch
See website for locations
punchpizza.com
With six locations in St. Paul and Minneapolis, these establishments
turn out consistently good pizza. All locations have a traditional
wood-fired oven, each one built and tiled with intricate mosaics by
one of the owners and his team of pizzaioli.
Nevada
Settebello
1776 W Horizon Ridge Pkwy
Henderson, 89052
Tel. 702.222.3556
settebello.net
On the outskirts of Las Vegas, far from the glitter of the strip, Brad
Otton, who trained under renowned pizzaiolo Enzo Coccia, has been
plying his trade to hungry Las Vegas locals since 2005. A second
location in Salt Lake City, Utah, is also popular.
New Jersey
A Mano
Chestnut at Franklin
Ridgewood, 07450
Tel. 201.493.2000
amanopizza.com
Considered by many to be New Jersey’s best pizza, this newcomer pulls
no punches. Its gorgeous twin pizza ovens, constructed by Neapolitan
craftsman with bricks and volcanic soil imported from Napoli, reach
1000 degrees, ensuring perfectly crispy and blistered pizza.
New York
Kesté
271 Bleecker St.
New York, NY 10014
Tel. 212.243.1500
kestepizzeria.com
The name translates from Neapolitan dialect as “this is it,” and this
new arrival might just be it, judging by the pizza coming out of its
oven. Roberto Caporuscio, who fastidiously tends the imported
wood-fired oven at the back of his diminutive but cozy restaurant,
opened the spot early in 2009, and plans to offer cooking classes. As
the head of the U.S. chapter of Associazone Pizzaiuoli Napoletana,
which certifies authentic pizzerie and trains pizza makers in Italy
and abroad, he’s certainly qualified.
La Pizza Fresca Ristorante
31 E. 20th St.
New York, 10003
Tel. 212.598.0141
lapizzafrescaristorante.com
The combination of authentic Neapolitan pizza, a menu overseen by
their Ligurian chef, and an award-winning Italian wine list might not
be the first thing that pops to mind when one thinks of pizza, but
they come together perfectly at this veteran establishment.
Motorino
319 Graham Ave.
Brooklyn
Tel. 718.599.8899
motorinopizza.com
The new kid on the block is turning out immaculate Neapolitan pizza to
the young, hip crowd of Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood. Don’t be
fooled by the location, though, this is grown-up pizza with
sophisticated leanings.
Naples 45
MetLife Building
200 Park Ave. at E. 45th St.
New York, 10166
Tel. 212.972.7001
patinagroup.com/east/naples45
Located in the MetLife building, this isn’t your neighborhood pizza
joint. It has three gargantuan ovens—including a Stromboli and a
Vesuvius—and an upscale dinner menu meant for lingering over meals,
though a take-out window serves those in a rush.
Una Pizza Napoletana
349 E. 12th St.
New York, 10003
Tel. 212.477.9950
unapizza.com
When he’s in New York City, this is the pick for renowned pizzaiolo
Chris Bianco. A simple, stripped-down menu of four classic pizza
offerings emphasizes the authenticity of these pies.
Pennsylvania
Il Pizzaiolo
703 Washington Rd.
Mt. Lebanon, 15228
Tel. 412.344.4123
In a storefront in one of Pittsburgh’s upscale suburbs, this
pizzeria’s unobtrusive location belies the authentic pizza within.
Texas
Dough Pizzeria Napoletana
6989 Blanco Road
Blanco Junction Shopping Center
San Antonio TX 78216
Tel. 210.979.6565
doughpizzeria.com
Husband and wife team Doug and Lori Horn drew on their extensive
culinary and hospitality service experience, as well as extensive
research, to open San Antonio’s only traditional Neapolitan-style
pizzeria.
Washington
Tutta Bella
See website for locations
tuttabellapizza.com
With three locations and one more on the way in the area, this is the
first certified Neapolitan pizzeria in Seattle.
Washington, D.C.
2 Amy’s Pizza
315 Macomb St., NW
Washington, DC, 20016
212.885.5700
2amyspizza.com
The most kid-friendly place to get DOC Neapolitan pizza, and heralded
as the best pizza in D.C., 2 Amy’s has been receiving rave reviews
since 2006.
Wisconsin
Café Porta Alba
15 North Butler St.
Madison, 53703
608.441.0202
cafeportaalba.com
Named after the first pizzeria in Naples, this diminutive café lives
up to its name. Vincenzo Pugliese, who hails from Naples and whose
family makes their own olive oil, oversees the quality of Porta Alba’s
pies.
April 2009
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You also excluded "The Prospector" VPN certified pizzeria of which
Peppe Miele said "the VPN pizzeria most like Italy in America"
Posted: February 27, 2009 18:59 by
BobbyMartino
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It is commendable you listed quite a few of the certified pizzerias
in the United States. Interesting that in California you left out
Antica Pizzeria in Marina del Rey operated by Peppe Miele, president
for Verace Pizza Napoletana Americas...
Posted: February 27, 2009 18:51 by
BobbyMartino
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http://lacucinaitalianamagazine.com/